Protecting the Second When Trad Climbing

May 28th, 2009 | Posted by: brandon

There have been numerous times while out climbing that I have seen a common mistake being made by new (and sometimes not so new!) lead climbers. Often, when trad climbing, the leader’s focus is only on where they can get good protection in so they can be safe, and they forget that they need to keep their second’s (the person belaying / following) safety in mind as well. This mostly applies to traversing, so that is what we will focus on here.

So this is just a small tip…and if it helps even one person, it is worth writing!

Keeping Your Second Safe When Traversing

  1. If you are leading and fall on a traverse, your gear may protect you falling far, and may protect you from swinging into a corner or roof on the cliff. But what about your second? While they are following you, if they fall on the traverse, they will swing the opposite way. Are there corners, roofs, or other dangerous features that they may hit, that weren’t a risk to you? Make sure that you place enough gear to protect them if they fall as well.
  2. If your traverse isn’t a direct traverse, but rather traverses gradually as you ascend, make sure that your second is protected for the same reasons as mentioned above, but also keep in mind that placing gear along the way will help them to follow the same path you took. This will make sure that they don’t go straight up, when they were supposed to go gradually right, and will keep them more in line with the placement to reduce the amount of swing if they fall.
  3. Make sure the gear you place on a traverse will take rightward and leftward force.

Just some small tips, but I hope they help!

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